When most people travel to Bali, they head to places like Tanah Lot, Jimbaran, Seminyak and Ubud. Nil and myself together with Eva opted to stay the full length of our trip just in Ubud and make daytrips, if possible, to the surrounding areas. You could say that it was a very leisurely holiday for the both of us and a chance for Eva to bond further with my in-laws. It came at a good time as she is beginning to experience some separation anxiety but more on that in my baby blog.

Note: Ubud has a no-electricity-town-wide every Saturday from 6pm till 10pm so choose your activities wisely.

What’s nice about Ubud?
In a nutshell, if you like culture, a slightly more laidback environment (compared to the hustle and bustle of Kuta), then stop here. Tourists flock here for the cultural shows, as well as the arts and crafts (galleries, markets, shops, etc). Most people will opt for about two to three days but if you’re staying longer, you can explore more than just the center of Ubud.

Where to stay?
There are plenty of resorts, homestays, cottages and villas – the sky is the limit…or rather your wallet, that is. Most people opt for accommodation in the centre of Ubud, which is along Monkey Forest Road and Jalan Raja Ubud. There are a few hidden gems in the other smaller streets like Jalan Goutama, Dewisita and so forth. Because our accommodation was paid for and we didn’t have to scout around (we stayed with my in-laws at Agung Cottages along Jalan Goutama), I can’t be too sure about the prices but what I do know is budget accommodation are priced below 100,000 rupiah per night.

Do be careful when it comes to choosing a place to stay – you’ll want hot water as the water in Ubud can get frighteningly chilly. Bonuses are things like air-conditioning (you won’t need it around this time of the year as the rains are heavy and very cooling) and a swimming pool (which is great if you’re heading there in the hot months).

What to eat?
Balinese cuisine, of course! While rich in spices, it is an eclectic mix of Malay, Chinese and Indian influences, making it very unique. The traditional bebek betutu (roasted duck stuffed with herbs and spices before being wrapped in leaves) and babi guling (roast stuffed suckling pig/pig) are must-tries on the list. If your palate is adventurous, you can opt for some lawar – with or without meat. Other Indonesian favourites like gado-gado, bakso and soto are good options as well.

Warungs or simple family-styled eateries are your best bet if you’re on a budget and would like to stretch your rupiah to the limit. Warung Local and Dewa Warung along Jalan Goutama have pretty delicious choices starting from 6,000 all the way till 15,000 rupiah (and more). Warung Ika Oka serves up some yummy roast suckling pig that is a hit with the locals during lunch and it’s located opposite the palace.

Posh places like Nomad and Kita serve up pretty good food but the ambience is more for tourists rather than locals or budget eaters like myself and Nil. Tourists love Nomad and another spot called Bunute for its lively environment and in the case of the latter, a very talented local band.

What to do?
Relax.

Seriously, if you’re looking for adventure or a boisterous nightlife, Ubud is hardly the right place to stay in. Come here if you’re after some cultural shows – there are plenty all year round – and some art. There are plenty of galleries to feast your eyes on plus the surrounding areas like Batun, Mas, and Celuk are home to some of the loveliest works of arts in this region, be it in the form of canvas/paint, stone or wood.

Spas and massages are popular as well; expect to pay 50,000 rupiahs for an hour’s worth of traditional Balinese massage on site. Add about anywhere between 25,000 to 50,000 if you want the masseur to drop by your hotel. Pedicures, manicures and facials are available as well not to mention the full on treatment of a lovely scrub plus a bath. Options like mandi lulur, milk baths and what-nots are available. Yes, when it comes to pampering oneself, Ubud is the place.

If you’re bored, rent a bike or bicycle and head off to the surrounding villages. The view can be fantastic with scores of paddy fields and houses/villas lining the skyline. Alternatively, if you don’t mind, take a walk. Best times are during the early hours of the morning. Bring some sunblock and an umbrella in case the heat gets unbearable OR in case it rains.

For those into shopping, expect some lovely gems at the local Pasar Seni located along Jalan Raja Ubud. Remember to hard bargain as anything and everything can be priced exorbitantly especially if you’re a tourist. Don’t be afraid to ask for less – your cue is this: if it doesn’t have a price tag (even handwritten ones can be challenged), it’s okay to bargain. Start off at the lowest possible – at least 75% off the original price before making your way up. Then again, don’t die from a heart attack if you end up paying more than what someone else paid. Most of the time, the difference hardly makes a dent in your pocket but means a lot to the locals.

Special notes
Drink only bottled water (a large bottle of 1.5L only costs 3,000 to 4,000 rupiahs) and avoid fresh vegetables & fruits (salads, etc) whenever possible.

Also water here is quite soft so if you’re doing laundry, you may want to skip the water softener and buy local detergent available at the mini-marts or Delta chain stores here.

Watch out for dog poo as you’re exploring the streets as Bali has an awful problem with the huge number of stray dogs – they are not wild, just loose. Most are harmless and some, well, their bark is worse than their bite.

Where we went
Versailles
Versailles, formerly the home to the French royal family up till the death of Louis XVI (and events preceding his execution), is today one of the most expensive, traditional and wealthy suburbs in Paris. You won’t find factories or industries here. Ohno, a good part of the suburb is dedicated to the the grounds of the Château de Versailles and its gardens while the rest features shops catering to both locals and tourists, as well as residential homes and other “service”-oriented buildings like schools, administrative buildings and so forth.

While Paris remains as the official capital city of France, in practice government-related affairs like senate and parliamentary meetings, greeting of dignitaries and so forth are still held at Versailles. It is very much still a place of political power as it was in its heyday as well as a popular tourist destination.

Things to take note of
Walking is a must in this large estate – the castle alone takes up 11 hectares of space while the gardens? A very massive 800 hectare-area of greenery for you to take in. So wear very comfortable shoes and stock some water plus a snack or two – nothing too smelly or messy please (you can’t eat inside the Château) (and take your trash with you if you’re outside).

If you’re visiting the Gardens during the summer or late spring months when the weather is bright and sunny, bring a hat and some sunblock to avoid burns…and definitely bottles of water! Oh, don’t forget to visit the toilets first too. As always, the queue for the mens are much shorter!

Now, while you’re admiring this elegant place, do be aware of pickpockets – crowds plus the wonderful AND distracting displays offer these quick and agile thieves the perfect opportunity to carry out some petty crime so keep your wits about yourself while you’re enjoying the sights. The usual precautions apply – make sure you can see your things and don’t carry too much baggage. There is a clockroom just after the entrance where you can check in your bag and such for free.

There will also be hoards and hoards of tourists – what do you expect from a UNESCO World Heritage Site? So if you don’t fancy being part of the crowds, start early and well, take your time. Chances are they’ll move through the place faster than you do!

How to get there plus opening hours & prices
To get to Versailles by public transport, exit at the RER station of Versailles-Rive Gauche (on RER line C).

Do note that the Château is closed on Mondays, certain French public holidays and during official ceremonies – so your best bet is usually to come during the weekend even though it can be much more crowded than usual. Low season at Versailles is from 1 November to 31 March whereas high season is from 1 April to 31 October (rightly so because during winter, the place isn’t so pretty!).

Ticket prices vary according to what exactly you want to see and are valid for an entire day. The one Nil and I took are to see the Château, gardens and Marie-Antoinette’s Estate. It costs €16 and comes with a free audioguide service. Now, this is the important part – tickets are available on sale at Versailles itself but the queue is ultra long and the counter closes at 3pm. You’re better off buying the tickets online here or at FNAC (book & music store giant) and SNCF (French National Railway) stations like Gare de Lyon, Gare Austerlitz, Gare du Nord and Gare Montparnasse 1 & 2.

For more info, check out the Château de Versailles’ website here (in English and also available in Chinese & French).

Versailles Château
The Château today has 700 rooms and houses over 6 000 paintings, 15 000 engravings and 2000 sculptures. The origins of the Château itself can be dated back to 1623 when Louis XIII built a hunting lodge and later had it enlarged. Later, the Sun King (Louis XIV, his son) redecorate the place and following the many years to come, the Château went under intensive plastic surgery to give it a more opulent and decadent appearance befitting of the French royal family – a surgery that continued on into the reign of Louis XVI.

After his execution, the Château became a museum and then the home of Napoleon’s wife only to be turned into a musueum again in the 17th to 18th century. During the World War II, much of the treasures and objets de arts were removed or used to finance wars (during Louis XIV’s time) hence the Château fell into disrepair. Today, while much of the Château has been repaired to its original state, restoration efforts are still on-going with the assistance of American foundations and individuals/families like the Rockefellers.

On your must-see list are naturally the King and Queen’s apartments with its many salons furnished with richly painted walls and ceilings topped off with decadent coverings and furnishings, the Hall of Mirrors – a 73 metres long, 10.5 metres wide, and 12.3 metres high hallway which features antique mirrors made in Paris, marble pilasters, topped off with a variety of busts and statues – and its magnificent collection of paintings and sculptures in any one of the historical galleries.

Versailles Jardins
Six million visitors come here annually and it is no wonder why. Covering over 800 hectares of greenery, the Versailles Jardins features rows and rows of lawns, blooming flowers, sculptures and what else but fountains and more fountains! Of course I chose a really crappy time to come (as you can see above) – nothing but dark green and brown, brown, brown over the horizon. So really, there is a reason as to why low season is cheaper!!! ^^

Come during middle of spring to summer or even up to autumn and you’ll see why this Garden is awfully popular with tourists. It’s not just the size but the craziness of it all. There is an orangerie (orange grove), groves of woods, mazes, flowerbeds, ornamental pools, a canal measuring seven kilometres around its edges (a Little Venice by itself), water sculptures topped off with pruned trees and what-nots. I can’t even begin to imagine the number of gardeners tending to this place every season.

The number of pools and fountains alone are staggering – 32 topped off with a network of 200 kilometres of channels, trenches, and aqueducts!!! Lets not forget the number of trees – 200 000 trees and 200 000 over flowers planted annually! Talk about taking gardening to new heights!

Be prepared to walk a lot here – we opted for a quick look because it was quite chilly but if the day is sunny and the weather is nice, take out your camera and go nuts!

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Full set of pics are available here.

WARNING: Ultra long entry ahead!

First things first, some basic information…

Getting around
Your best bet if you are staying within Paris itself is to go on foot or by train. Now, the Paris network is split into two types – metro or RER (the train line leading out to the suburbs like Paris Disneyland, Versailles, airports and so forth). One way to know which is which is to look for for signs like “Metropolitan” or “M” to signify metro lines (stops within Paris itself) and “RER” (stops outside Paris city).

Prices are as follows:

• One way tickets WITHIN Paris – 1.60 euroes
• One way tickets OUTSIDE Paris – depends on where you are stopping (for example, Champigny to Nation/Gare de Lyon costs

There is a Paris Visit pass for those who intend on staying for 1, 2, 3, 5 or 6 days and this depends on how many zones and so forth. Prices and more info is available on the RATP (the Paris network) site here (in English but also available in Italian, German, French, etc). The site has information, fares and guides to help plan itineraries as well as maps too.

Food and drink
Pâtissières, boulangeries and brasseries/cafes are the cheapest sources of food. Pâtissières and boulangeries are often grouped together as they provide access to baked produce like breads, cakes, pastries, sandwiches and so forth. The downside to buying from a bakery is that while it’s slightly cheaper than eating in McDonalds, there is no place to sit. So the next best thing is to head off to brasseries or cafes – sort of the French version of a diner whereby hot food is available throughout the day (unlike in restaurants where it only caters to the lunch or dinner crowd) and you can sit down for your meal or drink. It’s also cheaper than restaurants and just about the same price as eating at McDonalds.

Allow yourself anywhere from 10 to 15 euroes per person PER meal for a fulfilling spread. I had a lovely meal at a brasserie near Versailles (super chic and expensive area outside of Paris) in the form of a slice of quiche lorraine (very yum and filling) with a salad plus bread (bread is always free and readily available in France) for 6 euroes followed by a piece of very decadent brownie with crème anglaise and a scoop of ice cream for 4 euroes. Oh, water at the brassiere or cafe is free too. XD

Oh, when it comes to ordering food, you might want to pick up some of the local vocab:

• Chocolate chaud – hot chocolate
• Cafe/cafe creme – coffee/coffee with cream
• Coca – Coke
• L’eau – Water
• Biere – Beer
• The – Tea
• Plat du jour – Meal of the day
• Salade – Salad
• Frite(s) – French fries
• Entrecote/Fillet/Steak de bouef – Beef steak (and what type of cut)
• Porc – Pork
• Poulet – Chicken
• Roti – Roast
• Fromage – Cheese
• Pain – Bread
• Jambon – Ham
• L’addition – Bill

Don’t worry if you don’t understand French – most of the places in Paris cater to tourists or non-French speakers so it’s okay to speak English but at least greet (bonjour/bonsoir – good day/ good evening) and thank (merci) them in French!!!! ^^

Annoyances
Avoid cafes, brasseries and food eateries in the middle of tourist spots – you WILL end up paying more than necessary. When I was at Sacred Cœur (Sacred Heart Church at Montmartre), we stopped at a cafe (coz I had had had to pee) and Nil ended up paying 6 euroes for a hot chocolate and 7 euroes for a beer!!! (It normally costs less than 3 euroes.) The crepe with sugar was priced at 5 euroes (we didn’t order because I wasn’t about to get slaughtered again!). Later, further down from the church, we saw people selling crepe with sugar for 1.90 euroes and at a brasserie next to Le Lourve, Nil had a coffee for less than 2.50 euroes.

Free toilets are far and few in between in Paris – they are usually vandalised or not very clean. The ones that are require you to pay and the cost is the same as a cup of coffee. Hence why people often stop at cafes and such for a coffee AND a quick visit to the loo (which is usually cleaner and more comfy). ^^

When to visit and what to bring
Seriously, if you want to get some nice views – meaning greenery, nice weather (not the shitty fog during winter) and sunshine but not too hot, your best bet is to come around middle to late spring/early summer. The gardens will be in full bloom, the weather much better plus you don’t have to carry so many clothes and all. I’ve been to Paris in winter and now late winter/early spring and while some days can be lovely with plenty of sunshine, everything is brown, brown, brown. UGH. Oh, there is rarely any snow in Paris…so forget about capturing a picture of yourself in snowfall. XD

Depending on the weather, suitable clothes BUT comfy shoes are a must plus a small backpack where you can pack in some snacks and a bottle of water for your walking trips. You WILL have to walk – walking allows you to see the local culture and spots that you won’t normally see from a bus and so forth.

Beware of pickpockets – don’t worry about getting robbed outright but at least be alert and practise the usual safety precautions, ya?

Where we went
Chinatown
The largest Chinese quartiers (quarters) are located in the 13th arrondissements, along the streets of Avenue de Choisy, Avenue d’Ivry down to Porte d’Ivry. The area, according to trusty Wiki, houses nearly half a million Asians from China, Laos, and Vietnam (of course, other nationals also call this quarter home). It is one of the cheapest areas to stay in and is hardly worth a trip unless you wish to stock up on cheap/Asian goods. There is nothing fancy here – no lanterns, no pillars with Chinese carvings and etc. Just another place where real people do real things.

I wanted to check out the place just to see what I could get at the stores here and well, to take a look at the lifestyle of the Asians here – in fact, it’s what I do in almost every single major city or town I go to. A habit if you will.

Located in this quarter are two giant Chinese/Asian stores – Paris Store and Tang Freres. They sell a variety of Asian goods from vegetables to cuts of meat, cutleries to household decorations and so forth. The Paris Store here although not exactly bigger than the one in Lyon has a bigger variety of goods, including a nicely stocked shelf filled with baked pastries and goodies like, yes, yew char kuey or Chinese crullers (although it costs around 70 cents euro per piece). Still, after over a year of no Asian desserts, this shelf was a sight for sore eyes. It was also a comfort to hear people go about their shopping in Cantonese, Hokkien and other dialects…

Along the streets of this quarter, you’ll also find scores of Asian restaurants and yes, even shops selling things like char siew pork, roast pork, Peking duck, steamed paus (called brioche vapour) and so forth. Yums, really!

To get here, exit at the metro station of Porte d’Ivry or Porte de Choisy.

Montmartre
Montmartre is a village located north of Paris on a hill in the 18th arrondissements and surrounded by Pigalle, the red light district plus a largely Northern African community. Known as a nightclub district and to be the site of the Basilica of the Sacré Cœur, this area was once largely popular with the French for its cheap housing and vineyards. Today, it is one of the highlights in tours and popular with tourists (be careful of skyhigh prices) – everyone flocks here to see the Basilica of the Sacré Cœur and ironically, the red light district just down the hill.

If you don’t mind walking, head up the tiny streets for a view of quaint old buildings and shops with naturally, some scenic views along the way. Update: Deedeen just reminded me that there are heaps of cloth stores as well as a musuem here too…so you might want to check them out! But if walking is a pain – because it’s going uphill – there is a funicular service that runs from the base of the hill all the way up to the Basilica.

To get here, exit at the metro station of Anvers (to take the funicular) or Barbès Rochechouart (to go on foot).

Pigalle
On the border of the 9th and 18th arrondissements, this area is known as Paris’ touristy red light district with its hoards of sex shops, boutiques and theatres together with a museum – Museum of Eroticism which features collections of erotic art (different from pornography, mind you) – and yes, the Moulin Rouge. But it’s not just about sex, sex and sex. There are other things that the area is known for (Picasso and Van Gogh are some of the famous people who used to live here) and that is namely for music and music-related things like the sale of instruments and equipment.

Tourists usually drop by here at night to experience the other side of Paris – colourful, vibrant and sexy (not to mention raunchy) with its variety of cabaret, peep/topless/nude shows and what-not. We aren’t very big fans of the sexy side of any country even though seeing an entire building dedicate itself to the sale of sex toys, lingerie and what-not is dizzying (not to mention the rows and rows of X-rated shops).

Still it was on the way from Montmartre towards the Tuileries, so why not check it out for just the heck of seeing it?

To get here, exit at the metro station of Pigalle or Blanche (to see the Moulin Rouge itself).

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Full set of pics are available here. Up next…Versailles but in the meantime, just for kicks – life insurance leads, anyone?

There is a reason why I need to stay away from the wheel when I need to finish off my knitting projects. Since taking on the wheel again two days ago, I have done nothing else but spin, spin and spin. Of course, I was working towards finishing the merino-bamboo fibre I got from a destash on Ravelry but still, it’s bad if you have an entrelac stole AND a baby blanket to get working on!

Nevertheless, I can console myself in the fact that I’ll definitely bring my knitting (and not my spinning) with me to our trip to Paris next week. Yes, we’ll be heading off to Paris for around four days – Nil has a job interview there and while I balked at the idea of spending so much money just on the train tickets alone (thankgawd we’re staying at his godmother’s place), he insisted that it’s his treat and that I go along with him instead of staying at home alone. So okay, off we’ll be to Paris. We’ll be heading to Versailles for the weekend but otherwise, it’ll pretty much be a free-and-easy short trip.

In the meantime, I’ve been busy doing some dyeing – very little compared to what I was used to months ago – while waiting for stock to arrive. The inventory is more streamlined now, to cope with the possibility of us moving and so forth. Still, it’s not exactly fun sourcing for new suppliers and bases. But hey, it comes with the territory!

Hm, I better get back to my baking – I have plans for either some yummylicious brownies OR Spanish cakes. ^^

…when you’re in your 9th to 10th week of pregnancy!

These were taken at my father-in-law’s place at Molines en Queyras where the Le Tour de France went by last year. It is along the French Alps and is popular amongst skiers plus hikers during winter and hikers during summer when the weather is beautiful with plenty of sunshine and lots to see and take in, like wild deer and marmots!

The only problem with this is that it’s very dry – I had some nosebleeds – and cold but with the right clothing, you’ll do just fine. All I had on was a turtleneck, a polar pullover and a winter jacket (windbreaker + polar inside) and ski pants topped off with hiking shoes. The sunglasses are necessary because snow reflects A LOT of light and can be painful plus a beanie and gloves will do your head and fingers a world of good. But really, after 10 minutes of walking, you’ll start to feel hot, hot and hot!!!!

Trust me, it may look dangerous but it was actually very very safe and fun, even. I fell on my bum a few times but it was landing on a huge pillow of feathers! Have a look and gauge for yourself!

Right now, I’m off to take a look-see at some corsets!

With the spinning, dyeing and weaving for the shop coupled with French classes as well as part-time work not to mention overall care of the house AND the short autumn-soon-to-be-winter days (and include work on some leaky bathroom faucets – well, actually, that’s Nil’s job), I’ve been too tired out to talk about anything much or less blog.

In fact, all I can think about right now is sleep and not that photobook project which I have to rush off and finish – no thanks to a 31 December expiry date and an outdated software which resulted in me having to redesign everything.

It’ll be quiet over the next few days…I hope it won’t be for long.

But I know like with every coming silence, it’ll come to an end quickly enough. Just hang on in there, ya?

Again, click on the pics for a better view!

Our path today takes us closer to the Austrian border and as such, there are clear Austrian influences in this part of Italy. A chance visit to the Mereno market revealed dual language usage with German being more predominant than Italian (coupled with the “boom” of German tourists) – spoken and both written – and German food such as sausages and sauerkraut (sp) (pickled cabbage). Even houses here were more organized and less colourful; although the distinctive Austrian styled balcony (think plenty of flowers) is typical in this area. Even town names are dual (like in Switzerland, ,eg Lucerne/Luzern, Geneva/Genève, Neuchâtel/Nueunberg) but for the purposes of this travelogue, they have been written only in Italian.

Going back to the Dolomites, during World War I, the Dolomites was one of the sites of confrontation between the Italian and Austro-Hungarian forces. As such, there are open air war museums located at some of the Dolomite sites, specifically Cinque Torri (Five Towers) and Mount Lagazoui – both of which we visited. It is also around this time that the via ferrata first kicked off. The Dolomites has the priviledge of being one of the best place to explore this historical “sport”. The via ferrata run through paths that were first created during World War I and amazingly, the equipment is still in fantastic shape.

Be warned though – if you’re not used to walking for long distances or hiking, the rocky & sometimes narrow paths can get tiring. The views, however, make up for all the effort. Like with every hike, do bring plenty of water and some snack to replenish energy & water levels. Oh, don’t forget your camera as well!

We ended off the day by camping off the beaten track somewhere along Stelva di Cadore and slept under the stars, namely the Pan constellation, with the view of the Dolomites greeting us before we hit the sack. Austria is where we’re off to next and again, a passport is not needed!

To be continued…

The city of Bellinzona is well-known for one thing – its castles or rather The Three Castles of Bellinzona. Officially listed as the Three Castles, Defensive Wall and Ramparts of the Market-Town of Bellinzone, it has been an UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2000. The site is composed of Castelgrande, castle Montebello, castle Sasso Corbaro plus fortified walls. The Castelgrande is located on a rocky peak overlooking the valley, with a series of fortified walls that protect the old city and connect to the Montebello. The third castle (Sasso Corbaro) is located on a isolated rocky promontory south-east of the other two. Till today, you can still see all these three encircling the old quarter of the city. It is also a quaint city with colourful apartment blocks and palm tree gardens; definitely more charming compared to the more metropolitan Lugano.

Nicknamed “The Monte-Carlo of Switzerland”, it is hard not to agree when you see brands such as LV, Bvlgari, Giorgio Armani, Hermes and others lining its streets. It’s a shopper paradise here, if you have the cash to spare. But otherwise, console and occupy yourself with the many tourist spots such as the St. Lawrence Cathedral (from the 9th and 15th century) and the St. Mary of the Angels Church (from the 16th century). Alternatively, just get lost in the narrow streets of the city. We didn’t spend much time in this city; the traffic, hustle & bustle plus stylish Swiss-Italian folks in their suits just made us feel rather awkward so we decided to follow the lake and head off into Italy.

After about 10 to 15 minutes, we were in Italy; all we did was just drive through which is amazing considering that you probably won’t be able to do the same when you’re crossing from Malaysia into Thailand/Singapore and vice-versa. We did encounter one stop and it was enroute to Bormio where the local carabenieri (Italian for local police) stopped us out of the many Italian drivers. I think we were picked out because we had a Swiss plate. It was a typical check – funny considering that Nil couldn’t understand a word he was saying but I knew what the carabenieri was going to ask for – driver’s license and insurance. HAH! Anyway, we were sent off without much boohah after that. We spent the night near Passo Stelvio/Bormio and were glad to spot some wild deer busy having dinner.

To be continued…

Anyway, verdict? The entire trip was amazing – great views, good food, and plenty of bonding time and no, I don’t mean sex but really bonding! Oh, if you can, stock up on baby wipes and fruits/snacks in the car plus plenty of CDs. And don’t forget a lantern if you’re camping, otherwise, it’s lights out after 8pm.

Day 1: Neuchâtel – Interlaken – Airolo
The highlight for this day would be the Interlaken region, specifically around the small town of Kleiner Scheidegg which is the take-off station for those heading to the Jungfraujoch. If you’re heading there by car, it’s best to stop at Grindelwald and take the train up to the Scheidegg. There, you can opt to take another train to the Jungfraujoch or go for the many hiking trails around the area. Either way, you’ll have a spectacular view of the three famous Interlaken mountains – Eiger, Mönch, Jungfrau.

It took us about two and half hours to get from Neuchâtel to the Interlaken, longer if you’re taking the train. The view gets better as you’re nearing the region so don’t despair if the countryside, farms and dots of cows don’t tickle your fancy at first.

Anyway, at the Scheidegg, we chose the latter and took a 45 minute walk up the slope facing the centre and those three gorgeous mountains. The weather was amazingly good with clear blue skies and warm sunshine; great weather in fact for a picnic which was what we did. Don’t forget to dress appropriately for the weather. Even though it was a clear day with ample sunshine, the winds make things rather chilly for unsuspecting/unknowing visitors so a good fleece jacket plus a thin scarf is good for trips during the late summer/early autumn season.

After spending about two hours or so at the Scheinegg, we took the train back down to Grindelwald and headed off in the direction of Airolo, choosing to use the mountain pass road. Being in the Alpine region means that many countries have mountain passes offering shelter and food not to mention great opportunities for a picture postcard view to visitors, travellers and tourists. Located at an altitude of 2165 metres, the Grimsel Pass is between the valley of the Rhone River in the canton of Valais and the Haslital (upper valley of the Aar river) in the canton of Bern. The Rhone river starts nearby at the Rhone Glacier and flows down through Geneva and heads pass Lyon before ending in the Mediterranean Sea. A long trip, if you ask me!

After the pass, we tend proceeded to head off to Airolo via the Nufenen Pass (2478 m) and at the time, it would probably interest you to know that we’ve actually crossed over from the French speaking area to the German and finally to the Italian side of Switzerland. Airolo is a small-ski resort during the winter but most of the time, it is a pretty quiet Italian town that is characterised by colourful houses which are not quite as arranged as compared to the German villages/town. It was here that we camped for the night.

To be continued…

Summer is more than just great weather, sun, sand and surf for Nil’s family. It’s the time when we get together and do a few things as a family; one of which is making jam from scratch with just a copper pot, ladle & spoon plus a few empty jars.

Grandmaman’s home during the summer is in a little hamlet just about one and half hours from Lyon city called Mazelgirard. It’s farmland country here and homes are at least 100 years old. There are not many young families; people mostly come here during the summer because Lyon city itself is blistering hot and Mazelgirard is way cooler. After all, it is at least 1000 metres above sea level and yes, it’s even cooler than Neuchâtel.

Here in her garden, she has what Nil affectionately calls “the family trees” – scores of winding bushes of raspberries, blackcurrants and redcurrants. And just off the beaten path are wild blueberries waiting to be plucked. The golden rule to how much jam one person gets is basically very simple – if you harvest it, you’ll get some. With the family trees, Grandmaman is pretty much relaxed about who gets how many bottles; she adopts the “if you helped cook it, you get some”.

This year, pickings for blackcurrants in the garden are pretty slim, so Nil – blackcurrants are his favourite – decided to head out to the local Saturday market in search of some good old cassis just so he can have his yearly supply of blackcurrant jam. Prior to that, we decided to throw caution to the wind and get some apricots – no one really likes apricot jam in the family but since it was my first time, they thought it’d be nice for me to try my hand at making some jam. Needless to say, the rest is history.

Jam making is a simple yet complex affair. The recipe is short and sweet but the process leading up to the bottling itself can be quite tedious. Depending on what exactly you’re making, it can range from a simple thing as washing and cutting, to mashing and filtering. After which, the rules are easy to follow – don’t let it burn, keep it boiling, fill it to the top (less air is better), bottle and cap it immediately. If done and stored well, jam can keep up to a year. Nil’s family usually stores their jars in the basement but basically anywhere cool and dark is fine. Once opened though, jam must be kept in the fridge.

Apricot/Blueberry jam
To make 12 jars (medium to large)

Ingredients

Nearly 4 kg of extremely ripe apricots/ripe berries
Equal amount of sugar

Method

1. Wash, halve and remove the apricot pits. Place the fruit in a large copper pot. If there is juice, use it as well.
2. Add the sugar and stir with a wooden spoon until well mixed. Set aside for at least 12 hours.
3. Cook on a medium fire and stir occasionally to avoid burning the sugar.
4. In the meantime, wash the jars and cap with soap and hot water. This is an important step. Hot water and soap kills off bacteria and sterilizes jar which is crucial in ensuring the lifespan of the jam.
5. Once it starts to bubble, stir constantly. When the mixture has thicken*, remove from the heat and bottle immediately. Remember to fill the jar to its maximum capacity as the less air there is, the less chances of contamination.
6. Tighten the cap – as the jam cools, it’ll create a vacuum space between the surface of the jam and the cap.
7. Remove any traces of jam from the outside of the jar and keep in a cool place.

* To test this, drip a drop of jam onto a saucer/plate. If it congeals, the jam is ready for bottling.

Redcurrant/Raspberry/Blackcurrant jam
To make 10 jars (medium to large)

Ingredients

Nearly 3 kg of ripe berries
Equal amount of sugar

Method

1. Mash the berries with a grinder and discard the pulp. Pour into a copper pot and add the sugar. Mix well.
2. Cook on a medium fire and stir occasionally to avoid burning the sugar.
3. In the meantime, wash the jars and cap with soap and hot water. This is an important step. Hot water and soap kills off bacteria and sterilizes jar which is crucial in ensuring the lifespan of the jam.
4. Once it starts to bubble, stir constantly. When the mixture has thicken*, remove from the heat and bottle immediately. Remember to fill the jar to its maximum capacity as the less air there is, the less chances of contamination.
5. Tighten the cap – as the jam cools, it’ll create a vacuum space between the surface of the jam and the cap.
6. Remove any traces of jam from the outside of the jar and keep in a cool place.

* To test this, drip a drop of jam onto a saucer/plate. If it congeals, the jam is ready for bottling.

After it’s cool, the jam can be eaten with breads, plain yoghurt or fresh cheese or made into jam tartelettes and used as muffin fillings. Right now, I’m looking at around 10 jars of four types of jam…and if all goes well, I just might churn out a jam tartelette this week!